The Crete of Richard M. Dawkins (1903-1919)
Who was R.M. Dawkins?
Richard MacGillivray Dawkins (1871-1955) first went to Crete in
1903 to work as a prehistoric archaeologist. He took part in
excavations at various Minoan sites on the island for several
years. During this time he became more interested in medieval
and modern Crete than in its prehistoric past. Later he went on
to become Bywater and Sotheby Professor of Byzantine and
Modern Greek Language and Literature at the University of
Oxford (1920-1939), where he was also a fellow of Exeter College.
Dawkins’ Crete book
In 1916-19, during and immediately after the First World War,
Dawkins served in Crete as an intelligence gatherer in the Royal
Naval Volunteer Reserve. During this period he began planning
and writing a book about the medieval and early modern
buildings of Crete (especially churches and monasteries), as well
as topography, communications (mule tracks and roads), botany
and folk traditions, legends, and beliefs. In addition, he describes
various traditional crafts and the implements and mechanisms
associated with them: keeping bees, milling flour, pressing oil
from olives and extracting salt from saltpans. Dawkins also
describes the curious practice of wiping bundles of leather straps
over a certain species of shrub in order to gather a kind of gum
used for making incense – a practice that is still being carried out
near the village of Sises where Dawkins observed it – and even
combing the gum from the beards of goats that graze amongst
the bushes.
Dawkins never completed his planned book, but left drafts of all
of the 32 chapters, which are arranged geographically from west
to east.
What was happening in Crete at that time?
Dawkins was in Crete during a critical period in the island’s
history. When he first went there in 1903, Crete was an
autonomous state that had recently emerged from more than
two centuries of Ottoman rule. It was still under the suzerainty of
the Sultan but under the protection of Britain, France, Russia and
Italy. At the time when Dawkins was there, the population
consisted of both Christian and Muslim Cretans. In 1908,
Christian Cretans declared de facto Union with Greece, but the
island’s incorporation into the Greek state was not
internationally recognized until 1913. In the early 1920s, after
Dawkins had finally left the island, all the Cretan Muslims were
deported to Turkey in exchange for Greek Christians who had
been deported from Turkey.
Dawkins witnessed the process of modernization that gathered
pace after Crete was incorporated into the Greek state. This
entailed not only the building of new roads, but the demolition
of Venetian city walls along with the fine ornamental city gates.
What does the Dawkins Crete material consist of?
The material published here consists primarily of the incomplete
drafts of the 32 chapters of Dawkins’ proposed book. In
collaboration with his wife, Jackie Willcox, Peter Mackridge,
retired Professor of Modern Greek in the Faculty of Medieval and
Modern Languages, has edited Dawkins’ drafts and added notes
of his own providing elucidations, corrections and background
material as well as comparing Dawkins’ descriptions with the
situation today. The material contains photographs from
Dawkins’ archive, together with a much larger number of
photographs that Peter has taken himself to illustrate Dawkins’
text.
Crete has changed tremendously since Dawkins was last there in
1919. Huge material damage and loss of life were inflicted by the
German occupiers of Crete in 1941-45, including whole villages
such as Anogia, Kandanos, Gerakari razed to the ground, not to
mention many fine Venetian buildings in Hania destroyed by
German bombs in May 1941. In more recent decades, mass
tourism, road building and the construction of new buildings
have altered Cretan life irrevocably. In the process Cretans have
become much more prosperous.
Dawkins’ material presents an invaluable picture of Crete before
these changes took place. But if you travel to Crete and look
closely, you find that a lot of what Dawkins described is still
there: churches and monasteries (some in a better state than
they were a century ago), medieval castles, Venetian fountains,
all too few mule tracks, but even some individual trees as well as
other plant species (Cretan dittany and Cretan tulips) that are
still growing in exactly the same spots where Dawkins describes
them. He identifies some fascinating Ottoman buildings that
have since been repurposed and survive to this day, and he
reveals why the flesh parts of the ancient white marble male
figure who features on the Bembo fountain in Herakleion used
to be covered in black paint.
Author: Peter Mackridge
Peter Mackridge M.A., D.Phil. Professor of Modern Greek
(12 March 1946 - 16 June 2022)
Peter joined the Faculty of Medieval and Modern Languages as
Lecturer in Modern Greek in 1981. He was Professor of Modern
Greek from 1996 until his early retirement in 2003. His research
interests covered various areas in Greek language, literature and
cultural history since AD 1100, but he specializes in the period
since 1750. The recent focus of his research was the language
and content of Greek literature 1700-50, that is, immediately
before the rise of Greek nationalism. His other interests included
the history of the Greek language, Greek language ideologies,
and the history of Greek cultural nationalism, but also aspects of
poetry such as versification. His translations of stories by the
19th-century authors Vizyenos and Papadiamandis and a
collection of haikus by the 21st-century poet Haris Vlavianos
were published in 2014-15. Peter was an editor of the journal
Byzantine and Modern Greek Studies and a member of the
editorial board of the Greek journal Kondyloforos. He was
awarded an honorary doctorate by the University of Athens in
2008 and an honorary professorship at the University of the
Peloponnese in 2017.
Source:Faculty of Medieval & Modern Languages, University
of Oxford
Richard MacGillivray Dawkins
BSA Portrait
Peter Mackridge at the Gennadius Library,
Athens. Photograph: Cathy Cunliffe
Crete has a rich and varied history and we are sure that many of
you will find this rare glimpse by Richard Dawkins into this
wonderful Island a pleasure to read. It is with special thanks to
the Faculty of Medieval & Modern Languages, University of
Oxford for giving their permission to offer you the opportunity to
read this work by Peter Mackridge.